Doluca, Karma Chardonnay – Narince (2008)

Karma Chardonnay Narince

The wine that you see in the very bad picture on the left is a very nice white wine. You should have noticed that I keep the promises that I make and give chances to white and rose wines.

I mentioned this wine briefly here previously. It is a white wine of Karma group of Doluca, which are made of one local and one international grape. A nice blend of Chardonnay and Narince.
I like both Chardonnay and Narince and I tasted this wine before. So, I knew that I would like it this time, too. I gave it an extra credit when it glorified my evening with my friends that I missed and love so much. They all said they loved the wine. 
You should try it! It is fishing season in Istanbul. Order your favourite fish along with a cooled Karma Chardonnay Narince. You’ll see that life is beautiful ­čÖé
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Kavaklidere Selection Narince Emir 2008

Kavakl─▒dere Selection Narince Emir 2008

We have gathered in Radika in Kosuyolu for Baris‘s birthday. Thanks to him for letting us know such a nice place ­čÖé As usual, we arrived earlier than anyone else and therefore we chosed the wine. Since it was a hot summer evening, we wanted to drink a cold white wine, so we chosed Selection Narince Emir of Kavaklidere.

Narince and Emir are local grapes of Turkey. Narince is grown around Tokat and Emir is grown around Kapadokya. Narince has noticeable citrus fruit aromas. I couldn’t notice such a distinctive characteristic for Emir yet ­čÖé May be its acidity, because it is rather high.

Since we drank Busbag’a Narince-Emir a few days ago, my evaluation for this wine is rather a comparison. Selection Narince Emir is as much aromatic as Buzbag’s Narince Emir, but Selection has a little more acidity compared to the latter. Well, I personally prefer low acidity, but I think this wine was very nice, too.

Considering that we had to order the second bottle of the same wine a short while after everyone popped up, I gues I made a good choice for everyone ­čÖé

A Wine Journey to Anatolia

Resim yaz─▒s─▒ ekle

Buzbag organized an event to rediscover the harmony of Anatolian cuisine with wine. Thanks to this event, we had the opportunity to follow the footmarks of wine from Eastern Anatolia to Hittites’ earthenwares, from home made wines of Antakya to Buzbag on our tables in Kosebasi Restaurant. As Cuneyt Uygur, Manager of Kayra Wine Center, said, it was not a competition, it was rather a journey and Kosebasi’s cuisine and Kayra’s Buzbag wine accompanied us in our journey.

Buzba─č Emir-Narince 2010
This was a dinner which provided the proof for arguing against the belief that wine should be consumed along with Italian pasta, with French style foie gras, or with an almost raw but still soft piece of steak. Buzbag has discovered a way to bring people like me (who doesn’t like kebap) to a kebap restaurant! They offered delicious Turkish food of Kosebasi together with Buzbag wines along with nice conversation about wine. The following wines were served: Buzbag Beyaz (white), Buzbag Klasik, Buzbag Elazig Okuzgozu, Buzbag Diyarbakir Bogazkere, and Buzbag Rezerv. All of these red wines are made of Okuzgozu (fruity and lively) and Bogazkere (strong taste and tannin) grapes of Elazig and Diyarbakir respectively. These are local grapes that can be used in both blends or variatals. As Cuneyt Uygur mentioned that it was a general belief that wines and food of the same region make good matches. So, it should be a wise choice to drink these wines with Anatolian cuisine.

Buzbag Emir-Narince

The first course was a cheese table offered together with Buzbag Beyaz. This is a very nice refreshing wine with citrus fruit aromas made of Emir and Narince grapes. Its acidity is moderate compared to most of the wines. It is both strong and delicate, as the names of the grapes suggest. It had a great harmony with tulum cheese (a Turkish cheese that is enchased in a skin in production phase). The white and yellow (kasar) cheeses did not match with the wine as much as tulum did.

I was a little surprized when the appetizers were served. I can eat any food with wine at my home, but I didn’t expect them to be so assertive to serve gavurdagi, toros, abagannus and cig kofte on a wine event (these are all traditional Turkish food that contain significant amount spices, or at least garlic). I am not really fond of hot spices. Therefore I didn’t even try to match cig kofte with any wine. I still give them credit for their courageous offer. The most interesting match for me was between abagannus (an appetizer made of eggplant, garlic and yogurt) and white wine. Buzbag Beyaz made the taste of garlic and yoghurt mildly sour.

Buzbag Klasik

Buzbag Klasik (2008), made of Okuzgozu and Bogazkere, was served together with these appetizers but I saved my expectations from this wine for it’s match with the next, warm appetizers. When warm appetizers arrived, I knew that that was going to be a long night. I was almost full already! Buzbag Elazig Okuzgozu was served to our glasses. It is a lievely wine with red fruit and a little pepper aromas and medium body. I think it made the best match with icli kofte (a special kind of meatball with meat, nuts, onion inside and bulghur as a shell) and patlican sogurme (a warm appetizer made of steamed eggplant), which is normally not easy to match with wines. Humus (made of chickpeas and crushed sesame seeds) was much better with Buzbag Klasik.

Then it was Bogazkere’s (my favourite) turn. They served Buzbag Diyarbakir Bogazkere together with Tarsusi Kebap and Pideli Saslik (these are kinds of Turkish kebap, the first made of minced meat and the second of pieces of meat). I was thinking that I don’t like kebap made of minced meat but I had never tasted Tarsusi Kebap before! I loved it so much I ate all of it in a few seconds together with Bogazkere. Bogazkere’s strong tannins resisted the strong and a dense taste of Tarsusi Kebap and maintained balance.┬áAfterwards, they served ┼×a┼čl─▒k Kebab─▒ and I had never tasted it before too! It was so soft that I thought Bogazkere’s strong taste is too strong for it, but I was wrong. They glided through my throath together softly.

Buzbag Reserv (2006)

In the meantime, the last emtly glass was filled with Buzbag Rezerv (2006). Similar to Buzbag Klasik, it is a blend of Okuzgozu and Bogazkere, but has also been rested in French oak for 24 months, so that Bogazkere’s austerity becomes a little milder. It is a strong, bodied, balanced wine. Among chop-rib, kebap with eggplant and shish kebap, the wines best match was with shish kebap.

Lastly, the deserts were served. I have a long distance relationship with deserts, but this doesn’t mean that I won’t taste them at all. I tasted kunefe, semolina (irmik) with icecream, and pumpkin with icecream and crushed seasam seeds (tahin) respectively. I think kunefe was very good, considering that it didn’t make me feel it was too much! Usually, semolina with icecream is very popular especially after too much eating ­čÖé but this time the semolina pieces were cold and sticky a little. Pumpkin desert was not as soft as it is usually, but it really melted in my mouth together with tahin and icecream. Therefore, it was my favourite.

Pumpkin desert

I hope that I could at least make you think about, that wine is not something unattainable, not something that is not for “us” but is rather for western countries, ant that Turkish cuisine is compatible with wine. I wish you discover the wines that you like to drink with your favourite food and you share the joy that I try to share with you in this blog.

House Wine = Home made wine?

Kitchenette Narince 2008

I had a lovely dinner with friends that I have not seen for ages at Kitchenette. I did not choose the wine but I supported the choice only because the expression “house wine” was included in the name of the wine: Kitchenette House Wine Narince (2008). Not that I know what it means, it is only due to curiosity!

I certainly was not expecting something similar to the one in Bozcaada, a wine served in a plastic bottle that was originally a water bottle of a well known brand (it was a very delicious wine by the way). That would be inappropriate considering the fancy concept of the restaurant. Nevertheless, I expected something like boutique style production at least. At the end, it appeared that I was quite unfamiliar to Kitchenette’s concept. I captured the point only when I saw this sentence by Doluca (major wine producer in Turkey) on the bottle: “Produced in our facilities in┬áM├╝refte-Tekirda─č”.

Kitchenette Narince 2008

The wine was fine. It was a refreshing white wine with flawory and fruity aroma. I understand the bitter feeling of high acidity which I encounter in most of the white wines is not very strong in wines made of Narince (a generalization computed from one exapmle only!).

So tell me, what does House Wine means at the end? Please enlighten me, because for some reason I did not remember to ask the waiter!

─░stanbul Kadeh Kald─▒r─▒yor

Doluca’n─▒n ─░stanbul Kadeh Kald─▒r─▒yor ad─▒nda bir etkinli─či var, detaylar─▒n─▒ web sitesinden ve etkinli─čin kendi sitesinden g├Ârebilirsiniz. Bu etkinli─čin ├Âzelli─či, normalde ┼či┼česine para vermeye teredd├╝t edebilece─činiz t├╝rde ┼čaraplar─▒ kadeh olarak sipari┼č edebiliyor olman─▒z. Yani etkinli─čin ┼čarap listesi, zaten her restoranda kadeh / ┼či┼če olarak t├╝ketebilece─činiz ┼čaraplardan olu┼čmuyor. ─░tiraf etmeliyim ki listede daha ├Ânce hi├ž ad─▒n─▒ bile duymad─▒─č─▒m, ama az─▒c─▒k ara┼čt─▒r─▒nca ├Ânemini anlad─▒─č─▒m ┼čaraplar var. Etkinli─čin daha da g├╝zel bir ├Âzelli─či de kadeh sipari┼či verene ┼či┼čenin geri kalan─▒n─▒n hediye edilmesi olabilirdi belki nas─▒l olsa muhtemelen geri kalan─▒n─▒ kimse i├žmiyordur de─čil mi ­čÖé Neyse zaten 3-5 g├╝n├╝ kalm─▒┼č etkinli─čin, fazla ┼č─▒marmadan elimizdekiyle yetinmesini bilelim derim ben.

Ben d├╝n ak┼čam Doluca’n─▒n davetlisi olarak Vogue’da, bu etkinli─čin tad─▒n─▒ ├ž─▒kartmaktayd─▒m. Doluca’dan Pelin Han─▒m sayesinde ├žok keyifli, bol bol ┼čarap konu┼čulan ve t├╝ketilen, yani zaten bu kadar─▒yla bile ├žok ho┼č bir ak┼čam ge├žirdik. Kendisi bize Doluca’n─▒n ba─člar─▒, ├╝retim tesisleri, Al├ž─▒tepe’nin ├Âzelli─čini, mikro ba─čc─▒l─▒─č─▒n ne oldu─čunu, ve daha bir ├žok ┼čeyi anlatt─▒ ama ben bunlar─▒n hepsini size burada anlatamayaca─č─▒m. ├çok aceleniz varsa Doluca’n─▒n web sayfas─▒ndan ve google’da arama yaparak bilgi edinebilirsiniz. Aceleniz yoksa beni bekleyebilirsiniz ├ž├╝nk├╝ ilerleyen g├╝nlerde (haftalarda, aylarda veya y─▒llarda da olabilir tabi) ben buralarda bu konular─▒ anlat─▒yor olabilirim. Sohbet etmek d─▒┼č─▒nda elbette sayabildi─čim ve not alabildi─čim kadar─▒yla 6 adet ┼čarap tatt─▒k.

Ben mekana vard─▒─č─▒mda masada bir ┼×ili ┼čarab─▒ olan Valdivieso Chardonnay 2009 t├╝ketilmekteydi, hemen ben de bir kadeh istedim tabi meraktan yani yoksa hakk─▒nda bilgim oldu─čundan de─čil ­čÖé Tad─▒na bakt─▒ktan sonra anlad─▒m ki bundan sonra daha s─▒k beyaz ┼čarap i├žece─čim ├ž├╝nk├╝ bazen beni ├žok ┼ča┼č─▒rtan ┼čaraplar ├ž─▒kabiliyor kar┼č─▒ma. Meyvemsi ve canl─▒, i├žimi ├žok kolay olan ├žok ho┼č bir ┼čarapt─▒. Ben a├ž karn─▒na yar─▒s─▒n─▒ i├živerdim ki normalde hi├ž yapt─▒─č─▒m bir ┼čey de─čildir.

Yemeklerimiz ile beraber k─▒rm─▒z─▒ ┼čaraplar gelmeye ba┼člad─▒. Bu arada bir parantez a├žmak istiyorum. Evet ┼čaraplar g├╝zel, ortam g├╝zel, manzara g├╝zel ama bence yemekler de ├Âzel bir ├Âvg├╝ hak ediyordu. Ben sadece kendi taba─č─▒mdakileri tatt─▒m elbette ama dana bonfileyi b├Âyle pi┼čirip sunabilen bir a┼č├ž─▒ eminim t├╝m di─čer yemekleri de ├žok g├╝zel yap─▒yordur ­čÖé Restorandan ayr─▒ld─▒ktan sonra bir s├╝re, bu ┼čekilde pi┼čirildi─či s├╝rece her g├╝n dana bonfile yiyebilece─čimi d├╝┼č├╝nd├╝m. Bin defa methini duymu┼č olmama ra─čmen daha ├Ânce hi├ž Vogue’a gitmemi┼č olmam─▒n sebebini tam olarak bilemiyorum. Hemen sevgiliyle gidilecekler listesine yazd─▒m.

Neyse konumuza d├Ânersek, Pelin Han─▒m’─▒n y├Ânlendirmeleri do─črultusunda ikinci olarak Kav Tu─čra ├ľk├╝zg├Âz├╝ tatt─▒k (san─▒r─▒m 2007 rekoltesi). Ben ilk kez sadece ├ľk├╝zg├Âz├╝ ├╝z├╝m├╝nden yap─▒lm─▒┼č bir ┼čarap i├žmi┼č olabilirim. Olduk├ža yumu┼čak ve az tanenli bir ┼čarap oldu─čunu s├Âyleyebilirim. San─▒r─▒m ├žok da benim tarz─▒m de─čilmi┼č.

Sonras─▒nda Signium 2008 masaya geldi ve fark─▒n─▒ hemen hissettirdi do─črusu. Olduk├ža g├╝├žl├╝ ve g├╝zel bir ┼čarap. Ancak benim i├žin gecenin doruk noktas─▒ Al├ž─▒tepe Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz’─▒ tatt─▒─č─▒m an oldu. O kadar ├žok be─čendim ki, ├Âncesinde akl─▒m─▒ ve dama─č─▒m─▒ ba┼čka ┼čaraplar ile kar─▒┼čt─▒rmadan tekrar denemek istiyorum mutlaka! Notlar─▒ma bak─▒yorum da “s├╝perrr” gibi ├žok a├ž─▒klay─▒c─▒ (!) ifadeler kullanm─▒┼č─▒m ­čÖé Signium 2008 ve Al├ž─▒tepe Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz ba┼čl─▒ ba┼č─▒na birer yaz─▒ olmay─▒ hak ediyorlar bence (ger├ži bence her ┼čarap hak ediyor ama neyse), ilerleyen g├╝nlerde onlar i├žin ayr─▒ca yaz─▒ haz─▒rlamay─▒ d├╝┼č├╝n├╝yorum bu y├╝zden ┼čimdilik konuyu fazla uzatmayaca─č─▒m.┬á

K─▒rm─▒z─▒ ┼čaraplar─▒n aras─▒nda bir ara Doluca Karma laf─▒ ge├žince arada bir de Doluca Karma Chardonnay Narince 2008 tatt─▒k. Me┼če aromas─▒n─▒n hissedildi─či, ├žok ho┼č uzun bir biti┼či olan, ferahlat─▒c─▒, ├žok ho┼č, hatta notlar─▒mda yine “s├╝perrr” ifadesi ile yer alan bir ┼čarap.

Son olarak da tatl─▒ ile beraber Safir 2008 ile geceye noktam─▒z─▒ koyduk. Safir’de tatl─▒l─▒─č─▒n─▒n yan─▒nda bu tatl─▒l─▒─č─▒ dengeleyen, ne oldu─čunu tam olarak anlayamad─▒─č─▒m bir aroma var, benim ho┼čuma gidiyor. Belki biraz buruk bir bal─▒ and─▒ran bir aroma olabilir, emin de─čilim.┬á

Bu yaz─▒y─▒ buraya kadar okuduktan sonra art─▒k herhalde ├ž─▒k─▒p bu ┼čaraplardan birini denemeye gidersiniz veya en az─▒ndan evinizde kendinize bir ┼či┼če ┼čarap a├žars─▒n─▒z diye d├╝┼č├╝n├╝yorum ­čÖé Benim de ┼čarap d├╝nyas─▒na katk─▒m bu olsun diyerek yaz─▒m─▒ noktal─▒yorum.